Glasgow: Audio and writing


Retrospective:  June

On the way to Iona we entered Glasgow via Hamilton and soon saw evidence of the mighty architecture of the Industrial Age in the city that was once the second largest in Britain. We saw a plaque commemorating a battle with the English and discovered the necropolis, modelled on that of Pere-Lachaise in Paris and filled with impressive monuments. Glasgow city centre felt familiar- its combination of steep hills and central grid evocative of San Francisco and Melbourne. We saw the mighty Tenant’s brewery in the shadow of the medieval cathedral and discovered street-poetry that chimed with our long journey now entering its final stages.


That evening we visited the night-shelter set up and supervised by Phil and staffed by volunteers. Each night the volunteers cook and serve meals for around twenty destitute men, nearly all of them asylum-seekers who have no claim to state support. Phil told us how the government was essentially starving these people out of the country, having rejected their claims to stay but not actually deported them. The men spoke of long days sheltering in public libraries and struggling to occupy and feed themselves. A visiting journalist recently wrote about the hall where the men sleep fitfully, disturbed by each other’s night terrors of recent suffering and escape.

There is a separate room for women in the shelter, though there were none staying when we visited. Not all of the men were asylum seekers, some were vulnerable people from Britain who had found their way to sanctuary here.  One young man told us about his struggles on the streets of different cities all over the UK, and how grateful he was for Phil’s friendship, protection and advice.

Notices in the night-shelter

Click below to hear what Phil had to say about the shelter:


We returned to Glasgow after leaving Iona at the conclusion of our pilgrimage.  This  time we arranged to meet L from Gambia, a former detainee now waiting for his visa case to be processed. In the past he had relied on Phil and the night-shelter for accomodation. He now lives in a shared flat in East Glasgow, and due to his uncertain status he is not allowed to work, though he is studying I.T. and looks forward to the day when he can support himself and contribute to society in a meaningful way.

We got in touch with him through Indre at Samphire, the organisation that we had contacted in Dover on the first day of our pilgrimage. Lasana would have loved to walk with us but at this time he was fasting for Ramadan.  Fasting from dawn to dusk in equatorial regions is one thing, but the long days of Scotland in midsummer present a special challenge for muslims who cannot break their fast between four in the morning and ten o’clock at night!  Here he is speaking about the people and organisations that have helped him through ‘tough, tough, times’.

With L in the Botanical Gardens in Glasgow

Listen to our chat with L in the link below:


To mark World Refugee Day we attended a lecture at Glasgow University given by Professor Alison Phipps. Alison is a scholar, poet, a long-time host for refugees and co-convener of the Glasgow Refugee, Asylum and Migration Network. She has just been made the first UNESCO Chair of Refugee Integration Through Languages and the Arts. This was her inaugural lecture, and the lecture theatre was filled with people and music when we arrived.


Alison has kindly given us permission to share this recording of her inspirational words, combined with the music of Gameli Tordzro and musicians from Scotland, Ghana, Gambia and Burkhina Faso, as well as poetry composed and performed by Alison and Tawona Sitholé. The lecture concluded with a performance by Noyam African Dance Institute from Dodoma in Ghana. You can hear the powerful and energetic mime and dance routine at the conclusion of Alison’s inspirational talk in the link below.


Alison Phipps Lecture

Gameli Tordzro and his band

Refugee Tales: Interview


Pilgrims and Refugees:  The first collection of stories inspired by Chaucer and the journeys of displaced people today.

In March we began the second leg of our journey in Canterbury by walking around the ruins of St Augustine’s Abbey with David Herd.

David Herd is a Professor of Modern Literature and Head of the School of English at Kent University. He is also a poet and critic and the co-organiser of Refugee Tales, a literary and cultural project that links the experiences of contemporary refugees with the tradition of pilgrimage.

Refugee Tales campaigns for an end to the indefinite detention of migrants, a practice which the U.K. Government is almost alone in pursuing, one which has extreme consequences for some of the most vulnerable people in our society.

In 2015 and 2016 Refugee Tales organised a walk from London to Canterbury in solidarity with Refugees, Asylum Seekers and Immigration Detainees.  Taking Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales as a model, they coordinated and published a book in which famous authors co-operated with former detainees to tell their powerful stories.  The second book has just gone to the printers and will be available soon.

“Listen, Friend…

It’s where we start out
That people might
Simply circulate
Not stigmatized
For seeking asylum
In this straunge stronde
But listened to
As they tell their tales
That hearing we might
A polity –
Comprehending welcome.”
(Extract from Refugee Tales Part Two, from The Prologue by David Herd)

On July 1st 2017 Refugee Tales will commence a week-long walk from Runnymede to Westminster.  Runnymede is the site of the signing of the Magna Carta, and the walk will include a series of talks on ‘due process’ and the breach of human rights which is manifested in the practice of indefinite detention

Go to their website to sign up to walk alongside refugees and hear talks and readings by authors such as Ali Smith and Shami Chakrabarti.  We are planning to dust off our walking shoes to join them for a couple of days so we may see you there!

We were delighted that David took time to walk with us at the beginning of our own pilgrimage, when he told us about these amazing projects that intersect so neatly with our own.  Click on the link below to hear our interview.  If you listen carefully you will also hear David’s happy labrador Marcie as well as the bells of Canterbury Cathedral ringing out for evensong.

St Augustine’s Abbey as it appears now.  St Augustine arrived in Britain in 597, the same year that St Columba died.  Like Columba, he was instrumental in bringing Christianity to these lands, the abbey he founded became his burial site and a centre of pilgrimage.


Listen to our conversation with David here::

David Herd, Refugee Tales


World Refugee Day Special: Dumfries

To mark World Refugee Day we are posting a bumper blog of audio and photos from our visit to Dumfries on 25th-26th May.

We hope that by sharing the stories of the folk we met others will be inspired to emulate their examples of courage, pragmatism and generosity.  If you would like to support or contact any of them just click on the links.  Read to the end to learn about an opportunity to take part in a fantastic community engagement project that involves cycling and soup!

Travelling South-West to Dumfries meant diverting from the straight route to Iona, but we had a friend who would accomodate us and thought we could see an interesting path up to Glasgow from there. As it turned out Dumfries gave us some of our most inspiring meetings: for a small town it boasts powerful communal, artistic and charitable impulses.

Morning yoga

We were welcomed by a woman called Jill who had heard about our walk and offered to put us up at her house. Her kindness to strangers is inspired by her Buddhism, and she gave us a comfortable room, a delicious dinner and a free Yoga lesson to ease our aching joints. Jill has been trekking in Nepal and knew how much walkers cherish the opportunity to rest, eat and wash clothes. She and I had both visited the Langtang valley in the Himalayas, which was devastated by an earthquake two years ago. Jill has worked hard to assist the people who had been affected, undertaking a sponsored series of sun-salutations to raise money for a shelter for the elderly.

Jill took us to meet another inspiring local woman called Moxie. In 2015 she set up a charity called MOOL, which stands for ‘Massive Outpouring of Love’. Like many others Moxie had been appalled by the media coverage of the suffering of refugees and asylum seekers. She was moved to ‘put her head above the parapet’ and set up an online forum requesting donations which she intended to drive to Calais in a small van. It seemed that people had been waiting for somebody to take the initiative and the response she got was overwhelming. A local church offered her space to store the thousands of donations that came flooding in but even this proved too small. Two years later MOOL is still collecting and redistributing donations from a warehouse donated by the local council. They now send trucks direct to camps in Lebanon and have also helped with disaster relief closer to home, supplying donated blankets to the victims of flooding in Carlisle.

You can hear the remarkable story of MOOL in Moxie’s own words here.

With Moxie, third from right, and MOOL volunteers
Hand-knitted hats, jumpers and baby blankets donated by a local knitting group and destined for children in refugee camps

In the afternoon we visited the Allanton World Peace Sanctuary by the River Nith. Set up in the wake of the Atomic Bomb attacks on Japan there are many of these centres spread around the world, with the aim of spreading peace. Their motto ‘May Peace Prevail on Earth’ is inscribed in different languages on pillars in the grounds, one for each nation. You can hear the story of the European Peace Centre in the words of its founder Caroline hereIMG_0688

On the day we visited the centre was hosting a group of refugee families who had been given the opportunity of a weekend break from Glasgow by the Red Cross. Women from a dozen countries were staying alongside each other, sharing meals and participating in craft-based activities while their children played together under the supervision of volunteers. We joined a group of them for a walk by the river. While Christy skimmed stones with the children Isabel interviewed Gesya, a former refugee now working for the Red Cross. You can listen to what Gesya had to say here.

The group enjoying the sun at Friar’s Carse on the River Nith

IMG_0681Later we were able to repay Jill for her kindness with a private tour of some remarkable gardens thanks to a connection we have we the owners. The Garden of Cosmic Speculation is occasionally open to the public to raise money for Maggie’s cancer centre. On this brilliantly sunny day we had the place to ourselves. The garden was conceived by Charles Jencks and his late wife, Maggie Keswick, it has evolved with the help of Alastair, the head gardener, ever since.  It is inspired by the worlds of cosmology, physics and nature, and has to be seen to be believed. Alastair carefully explained the narrative of the garden to us: the water cascade of steps recounting the story of the universe; a terrace shows the distortion of space and time caused by a black hole; a “Quark Walk” takes the visitor on a journey to the smallest building blocks of matter and a series of landforms and lakes recall fractal geometry.


To round of a busy day we visited The Stove, a community hub in the centre of Dumfries set up and run by Matt to create a safe place for local residents to explore art and exchange ideas. In an interview with us Matt explained how Dumfries town centre had been gutted by out of town supermarkets and international chains, and how he hoped to bring life and creativity back to the heart of the community. Matt also kindly invited us to speak about our pilgrimage at the spoken word event ‘Brave New Words’ that evening, our first attempt to speak about our journey on stage. You can hear what Matt has to say here.

Dumfries bathed in May sunshine

That evening we stayed with family friend Alice. She had lots of experience volunteering in ‘the Jungle’ in Calais and spoke about the value of simple grass-roots action. She herself has designed and built a mobile soup-kitchen which she hopes to deliver to Glasgow, London or Calais. A bike with a trailer that folds out to become a covered table and benches with stove and cooking pot, the contraption is known as ‘Stone-Soup’. The aim is to provide free meals to those who are destitute, be they asylum-seekers without recourse to state provisions or others who have fallen through the net of social care. The name comes from a parable that has variants in many different cultures:  some travellers arrive in a village and by persuading each villager to add to the ‘soup’ they are making (initially just a stone is some boiling water) they create a nutritious meal to feed everyone.

The parable teaches us that if many people make a small and practical contribution, something wonderful can be achieved. A valuable lesson in the context of a crisis that can seem overwhelming.

If you would like to cycle the Stone-Soup kitchen on a leg of its journey from Dumfries to London and on to Calais, please get in touch with us on and we will connect you with Alice.

The ingenious mobile soup-kitchen designed by Alice